OG Olympics

Our official first port on the cruise was Katakalon--the gateway to Olympia, home to the first Olympics.  Like pretty much everyone on the boat, we booked an excursion to Olympia, but unlike most, we booked with a private tour operator (Travel Insiders), so our tour group numbered only 15 rather than 25-30.  Right on time, our guide Zoe was at the port waiting to share her love of her home with all of us.  She won Ned over right away by referring to him as blue-eyed and blonde just like Northern Greeks.  He turned to us all with a big smile, mouthing "blonde" as a personal victory.

One thing to note, all of our guides have made reference to the significant economic challenges facing Greece, some more pointedly than others.  Zoe noted that the high unemployment rate for young men in Athens has led some to return home to work their family farms--a role they ran away to the big city to escape. As a result, Katakalon's olive oil, raisin, and other agricultural businesses are innovating with the ideas of these returnees--which is a small silver lining.  Zoe also had praise for the outgoing government and concerns about the incoming one--which was interesting given that this concern ran counter to the US press assessment of this change.  Time will tell.

And, speaking of time, we were going back in time ... to the site of the original Olympic games.  It was a full hat and lots of sunscreen day, with temperatures pushing well into the 90s.



Luckily, the Olympic grounds are filled with trees and ready shade.





Much of the site is in huge pieces from formerly grand structures fallen to Earth and parts of some buildings that have been reconstructed.  But just seeing these heavy, heavy scraps made us think about the time and effort it must have taken to get this rock and marble to the site to build a temple and grounds as the backdrop for a celebration of Zeus.


Zoe was an enthusiastic storyteller, clearly captivated herself by the nobility of athletes dedicated to the mutually supporting goals of mental and physical strength.  The pride that Katakalon has to this day because it is the home to the first Olympiad is palpable.  She recounted how the Olympic flame is lit in a cauldron on the site after an elaborate ritual, and she spoke about the mission the Olympics has of bringing the youth together in sport.  Well, it brought these two together (in the sun and shade).







I wonder if the ancient Greeks always had their heads in their parchments and tablets.



This is it: the first Olympic stadium--that word, by the way, comes from the Greek "stadion," which is the length of this one.  So, next time you watch the Olympics, imagine instead, sitting on this hill, watching a bunch of naked, sculpted guys compete for an olive branch crown.  Well, imagine that if you're a guy, because women were not allowed as spectators.


This is the Temple of Hera, at which 11 cosplay Vestal Virgins light the Olympic flame that then goes on a relay, first to Athens (home of the stadium of the first modern Olympics) then on to the host city.




If there was a medal for the brightest pink cheeks, I'd win it.  It was hot!


So odd to see the bits and pieces of history just strewn about.



After a few hours at Olympia, we switched tourist hats from history to culinary.  Our next stop was a local shop that carried everything from a roomful of olive oil to honey to wine to jewelry.  We got to try more than 25 different olive oils, four different honeys, and a several wines.  The olive oil was so good--light, tasty, and smooth.  We bought a basketful, along with some olive oil hand cream (including one with the scent "Donkey Milk"--smelled like vanilla).  Turns out that as her main source of employment, Zoe runs a small olive oil processing business and gets paid in olive oil that she labels and sells--so she knows olive oil.  She shot down the foodie dictum that olive oil goes bad as nonsense, saying that Greeks buy it in the biggest can available and keep it for years.  As long as the original oil is good, time makes no difference.  She also shared that most "Italian" olive oil is actually Greek, imported and then relabeled.


We also got some kind of price break on aquamarine jewelry for Harper from a salesperson who talked Harper into buying a less expensive ring so that she could get the more expensive piece when she was older.  I'm sure we still paid too much, but it was fun.

Our almost last stop was at the Archaeological Museum of Olympia: most of the statuary from Olympia was removed from the site for safekeeping and now resides in a small but packed local museum.



Help us!


A statue of winged Nike--you know, the one that makes the shoes--is one of the museum's highlights.  All of us were mesmerized by how the sculptor could turn marble into flowing fabric and make stone move.  Amazing!


The museum's greatest treasure is the Hermes of Praxiteles, on which Michelangelo modeled David.  Again, the skill in creating life and movement in marble--wow!  Zoe advised that some art historians believe that Praxiteles used a female bum to model Hermes's own--several of us agreed.



Like looking in a mirror :)


More marble in motion.




Trilogy of Terror: Ancient Greek Edition


Our last stop was a short one in Katakalon to shop or snack.  We opted for the latter, grabbing comfy seats under a huge umbrella for a gelato, sorbet, and soft drink break.


Bright sun, beautiful leaves!


And then, it was back to the boat, where Ned indulged his favorite thing about the Koningsdam: the automatic hand washer.  Seriously, he found out who made them and everything!


After a long day in the heat, we went super old school at night and worked a jigsaw puzzle in the Explorations Cafe.


The Koningsdam has a musical theme, and around every corner, there's another surprising work related in some way to music.  For example, a dotted David Bowie; a tribute to the Cars (maybe?) not sure about this one, but it is lovely.



With a goodnight wish from an off course penguin, we fell into dreams of Olympic triumphs and smooth seas ahead (praise, Zeus!).


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